Is the Base Model the Globally Loved 62GS Modern Design?

Egashira: The GS9 Club, which is open only to Grand Seiko owners, has been rapidly expanding, especially in the United States, as well as in Europe and Asia. The previous model released in 2024 was limited to Japan, but this time, we aim to create an original limited model for GS9 Club members around the world.

Ando: That makes me even more excited. Since this is the first time Kubo-san has joined the project, let me briefly explain how things went previously. At the beginning, I made all kinds of impossible requests. Grand Seiko watches have iconic cases, hands, and indexes, elements that make them instantly recognizable. So, I even suggested removing the logo entirely.

Kubo: That certainly would be innovative (laughs).

Ando: Of course, Egashira-san rejected it immediately (laughs). Like before, we thoroughly reviewed the past archives and exchanged every possible opinion to explore what truly defines Grand Seiko's identity. And since GS9 Club members already own a Grand Seiko, our basic approach remains the same: to create something they would naturally choose as their next piece.

Egashira: First, of course, we need to select the base model.

Ando: To begin with, I'd like to ask about the current situation of the global market. Which models are performing well overseas?

Egashira: Among the most popular models in many markets, including the United States, are Heritage Collection SBGA413, affectionately known as the “Cherry Blossoms,” and the SBGA211, known as the "Snowflake."

Ando: Many Japanese owners may not know this, but there are actually special models available only in overseas markets such as the U.S. and Europe, correct? What kinds of models are most frequently requested from overseas markets?

Kubo: That would be “the 62GS Modern Re-interpretation Design”, which also serves as the base for the popular “Cherry Blossoms.” The 62GS was the first Grand Seiko model equipped with an automatic mechanical movement, released in 1967. We have made it a re-interpretation design with a modern sensibility.

The compact E9, Powered by the Caliber 9SA4, Features a Case Diameter Under 40mm

Ando: But the "Cherry Blossoms" has a 40mm case diameter, doesn't it? I have been covering the international watch fairs in Switzerland for 15 years, and during my visit to Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, I felt that the trend toward smaller cases, specifically under 40mm diameter, had finally taken firm hold.

Egashira: True, we are indeed expanding the lineup of smaller models within Grand Seiko, and globally, more customers have been choosing cases under 40mm. In that sense, the 38mm 62GS Modern Re-interpretation Design might be a strong option. This model features a high-intensity titanium case and is equipped with the Caliber 9S85, a 10-beat automatic mechanical movement.

Ando:It's compact and suits the current trend, yet not too small, making it an easy size for Grand Seiko owners to choose. This could be a strong candidate to start with. By the way, is there also a version without a date?

Kubo: No, all 62GS Modern Re-interpretation Design models come with a date display.

Ando: I see… As I mentioned last time, owning over 200 wristwatches means that adjusting the date each time I change my watch becomes a real chore. For GS9 Club members who have multiple watches, a no-date model would certainly be more convenient.

Egashira: I see, that makes sense. So that means this option is off the table…

Ando: Since this will be the first global GS9 Club exclusive model, what do you think about using the Evolution 9 Collection (E9), one of Grand Seiko's signature lines, as the base?

Egashira: We actually receive a lot of requests for customizing E9 models, both overseas and in Japan. But, for various reasons, we haven't been able to take on such requests in recent years. But as this is a GS9 Club exclusive model, I don't think we have to rule it out.

Ando: Wonderful! If you ask me, I'd love a model equipped with the manual-winding movement, Caliber 9SA4. It's the first manual-winding 10-beat movement to be introduced in over 50 years, released in 2024. How has the response been overseas?

Egashira: We've received an enormous response, and it has become a highly popular model, especially in the U.S., where orders keep coming in.

Kubo: The 44GS Modern Re-interpretation Design, which served as the base for the previous original model, is a style packed with Grand Seiko's history. In contrast, the E9 is a new collection that carries Grand Seiko into the next generation, giving it a distinctly forward-looking character. And a manual-winding, no-date model is quite user-friendly as well.

The Beautiful 9F Quartz, One of the Top Sellers Overseas, Now in a Special Edition

Egashira: Another model that consistently ranks among the top sellers in overseas markets is the SBGY007 from Elegance Collection, the so-called “Thin Dress Design” series. Known as the Omiwatari, this model features the manual-winding Spring Drive Caliber 9R31. Ando-san, you've been wearing this model a lot, haven't you?

Ando: Yes, it has a gentle, elegant feel, and I really like it. This one is definitely a contender. With its 38.5mm case diameter and manual-winding design without a date, the size feels just right.

Egashira: And what about the idea of a smaller 9F quartz model? Until two or three years ago, mechanical and Spring Drive models dominated the overseas market, but recently quartz models have been gaining traction.

Ando:Yes, I think that is very possible. Even in the vintage market, quartz watches have been gaining popularity recently. For example, the Quartz Astron, the world's first quartz watch released by Seiko in 1969, has seen its value rise sharply.

Egashira: Right now, one of the most popular quartz models is the 37mm stainless-steel version. In the European market, it even ranks among the top ten best-selling models. Although it was released some time ago, it has continued to sell steadily ever since.

Kubo: Even though it has a date display, with a quartz movement that doesn't require frequent date adjustments, it really wouldn't be an issue. If we go with quartz, I'd like to create something packed with a kind of value you don't normally find.

Egashira: What about giving it a see-through case back so the movement can be viewed?

Ando: Grand Seiko's Caliber 9F is not only extraordinarily accurate but also beautifully finished, truly the ultimate quartz movement. There are very few quartz movements whose finishing is beautiful enough to showcase through a see-through case back, but Caliber 9F is one of them.

Egashira: If we go with quartz, we could even adjust it to a special accuracy of ±5 seconds per year.

Kubo: That is pretty interesting.

Ando: All of the models we've discussed so far are genuinely hard to pass up. Considering that most GS9 Club members are looking for a second or even third watch, a no-date model with a manual-winding movement, which has become increasingly popular in recent years, might be the ideal choice.

Kubo:>Ando: I think so as well. In that case, the options would be either an E9 equipped with the manual-winding, 10-beat mechanical movement Caliber 9SA4, or a slim dress watch fitted with a manual-winding Spring Drive movement…

Egashira: The last time was a manual winding mechanical. So this time, choosing a manual-winding Spring Drive movement might be a good direction. Actually, when looking at total sales overseas, Spring Drive watches are overwhelmingly popular.

A Classic Slim Dress Watch Featuring a Manual-Winding Spring Drive Movement Is Chosen

Ando: This aligns with the global trend toward dress watches, and this vintage-inspired design appeals to both men and women. It also enjoys strong support among people with a keen sense of fashion. I believe it will resonate with a broad audience that has a sharp eye for style.

Egashira: With Kubo-san leading the design this time, it's an excellent match in every sense. The dual-curved sapphire crystal used for the watch glass was originally conceived by Kubo-san and brought to life by the manufacturing team.

Ando: Huh, really?

Kubo: The first model to feature it was the quartz SBGX119, released in 2015. At the time, as I was exploring ways to express the classic charm of vintage watches from a design perspective, what caught my attention was the gentle form of their watch crystals. In the 1960s, watch crystals were made of acrylic—shapely and warm in appearance, yet soft and prone to scratches. So, I wondered whether we could recreate that same warmth and gentle form using today's highly durable sapphire crystal.

Egashira: Interestingly, this crystal also resulted in an unexpected optical effect. When paired with this crystal, even a flat dial appears to take on a gentle curvature. Because of the sapphire crystal's high refractive index, it creates the illusion of a domed dial, even when the dial itself is completely flat.

Kubo: We applied the same design philosophy to the dual-curved sapphire crystal used in this slim dress watch. The case also incorporates a special polishing technique I developed for a model I first directed in 2018. In that sense, this is a model that means a lot to me.

Ando: That is a great story! When you think about it, a dress watch that can be worn in formal situations is an excellent choice for a second watch.

Egashira: I agree.

The Symbolic Numeral 9 Continues A Dial Unlike Any Seen Before

Ando: For the dial design, I want to preserve the identity of a GS9 Club limited edition, while rethinking everything else from the ground up.

Kubo: In terms of identity, you're referring to the Arabic numeral "9,” right?*

Egashira: Yes, that is very iconic. This one was designed by Kamata-san, who was part of the previous Japan edition project, and it uses a typeface inspired by the "9" in the GS9 Club logo. It plays a symbolic role, so we definitely want to carry it forward this time as well.

Ando:And on top of that, we want the dial to be something instantly recognizable as unlike anything Grand Seiko has done before.

Egashira: So, in terms of color, we'd like to choose something completely new, something Grand Seiko has never explored before.

Ando: That's right. In a landscape where many luxury brands are seeking their own color palettes, we hope to find a hue that feels distinctly Japanese yet modern—a color only Grand Seiko could create. By the way, what kinds of dials have been common in limited edition models for the U.S.?

Egashira: You often see vivid, impactful colors: bright pinks, blues, purples, and so on.

Kubo: The Heritage Collection 44GS Hi-Beat GMT U.S. Special Edition SBGJ259, released in 2022, features a motif inspired by a Japanese bamboo garden and is a very distinctive piece featuring a striped stamped pattern combined with a vivid green dial.

Ando: That is amazing! To users familiar only with domestic models, it must feel quite fresh. Still, it's surprising that overseas markets would request something as specific as a theme inspired by Japanese bamboo forests. It really reminds me how many overseas owners have a deep appreciation for Japanese culture.

Solid Colors with a Matte Finish Traditional Japanese Colors with a Modern Edge

Ando: Grand Seiko is strongly associated with pressed dial patterns, which is its key method for creating unique dials, but how about trying a solid color dial this time? Among the last candidates, I included a model with a matte pink dial, but it was dropped during the voting stage. I was actually quite disappointed about that.

Egashira: Ah, the proposal based on the SBGH297, the Ginza Limited 2022 model with a dial featuring a grid motif inspired by the streets of Ginza.

Ando: I feel that this kind of worldview could appear more often within Grand Seiko.

Egashira: Indeed, there are hardly any others like it. Dials without sunburst finishing or pressed patterns are quite rare. For instance, the SBGM221 from Elegance Collection enjoys strong, long-standing popularity overseas. But with solid color dials, the available color options are actually quite limited. This might be a good opportunity to develop an entirely new color. Normally, introducing new colors is strictly off-limits for custom models, absolutely not allowed. But for the GS9 Club, the rules are different.

Ando: I'm really glad to hear that! It may sound a bit presumptuous, but I think it would be truly meaningful if we could take on challenges that might even shape the choices available to the next generation within the Grand Seiko world.

Egashira: Yes, it might be interesting if we could express the depth and potential of the Grand Seiko world.

Ando:When it comes to color, the global luxury watch scene now favors subtle, nuanced tones rather than vivid ones.

Kubo: Those are tasteful and chic, aren't they? For example, colors like olive green and salmon pink.

Egashira:Speaking of nuanced colors, I have an idea. When we were developing the Cherry Blossoms, we ultimately settled on the theme of the 24 sekki, or solar terms. But right up until the end, there was another concept we kept discussing with the U.S. team. (He spreads the reference materials out on the table.)

Ando: Oh! That is a really cool color palette!

Egashira: This is a traditional color system called Shijūhatcha Hyakunezumi—literally, "48 shades of brown and 100 shades of gray." These are traditional Japanese colors that became popular among townspeople after the Shogunate issued sumptuary laws prohibiting luxury in the late Edo period.

Ando: For example, Benikeshinezumi, a dark gray with a hint of red-purple, or Minatonezumi, a pale blue-green gray. The names themselves have a certain poetry to them, really beautiful.

Egashira: They feel unmistakably Japanese yet still look modern, and you won't find these tones on the dials of other watches.

Ando: Many of the Grand Seiko owners overseas are deeply familiar with Japanese culture. That's why colors that aren't flashy but possess a quiet beauty, tones that even evoke the aesthetic of ukiyo-e, will certainly resonate.

Kubo: Okay, let's pick a few colors and start thinking about the design. I'll also check with our local team in the U.S., which is our second-largest market after Japan.

Ando: I'm sure we will be able to create another amazing model, unlike anything made before. I'm really looking forward to seeing this design!