Grand Seiko Is Increasingly Recognized as a Luxury Brand in the U.S. Market

Egashira: We are planning the first global release of a GS9 Club exclusive model for early spring 2027. For several months, the Japan team has been holding in-depth discussions, considering candidate models that fully embody the essence of GS while also reflecting current trends. Today, the renderings are complete, so I’d like to use them as a basis for a more in-depth discussion with you both later on.

Joe: That sounds great. I’m looking forward to it.

Ando: Before we do, as we are lucky to have you both here, would you mind filling us in on the current state of the U.S. wristwatch market?

Joe: The market has stabilized somewhat, but even so, Grand Seiko continues to see strong sales growth. Many of our customers tend to be relatively young, often with backgrounds in engineering or tech, with a strong understanding of mechanics. Over the past five years or so, Grand Seiko’s brand strength has increased dramatically, gaining recognition and, in my view, establishing its position as a true luxury brand.

Ando: How do U.S. consumers perceive the appeal of Grand Seiko?

Joe: They seem to appreciate the unique characteristics that set Grand Seiko apart from other brands. For example, the high level of accuracy, distinctive dial designs, and its beautiful finishing, which is carefully executed by skilled craftspeople. In particular, the Spring Drive movement, which is truly one of a kind, is a major factor in the brand’s appeal. This is evident in the strong preference for models powered by Spring Drive.

Ando: We’ve also heard that the Heritage Collection SBGA413 (https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbga413g), the “Cherry Blossoms” model, is the best-selling piece.

Joe:That’s right. Interestingly, however, the most frequently searched model online is SBGA211 (https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbga211g) from the same collection, widely known by the nickname “Snowflake.”

Ando: So not the top-selling “Cherry Blossoms.” I wonder why.

Jon: Most likely because the “Snowflake” is an early nature-inspired dial and has been a long-standing bestseller. Globally, it’s the brand’s most iconic and widely recognized model. The fact that “Snowflake,” its nickname widely used outside of Japan, is easy to remember probably contributes to its popularity.

Joe:Many people are first exposed to Grand Seiko through the “Snowflake,” but when they actually see the “Cherry Blossoms” in person, they’re often surprised by its extremely subtle, refined, almost silver-like pink tone, and find themselves strongly drawn to it. That, I believe, is what ultimately leads to a purchase. Today, many brands offer pink dials for men, but this level of intricate coloring is a major appeal that simply can’t be found elsewhere.

Ando: I see. I can certainly understand how the pink of the “Cherry Blossoms” becomes even more compelling in person.

An Under-40mm Size and a Texture-Free Dial—What Fans Have Been Waiting For!

Egashira: : Now, I’d like to begin our discussion of the exclusive model project. First, allow me to explain the underlying concept. For the base model, we are considering the Elegance Collection SBGY007 (https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgy007g), a slim dress watch equipped with a manual-winding Spring Drive movement and inspired by the legend of the “Omiwatari.” The case diameter is 38.5mm, giving it a slightly more compact presence.

Ando: In Japan, we’ve seen a shift toward smaller case sizes over the past few years. How are things trending in the U.S. market?

Jon: I think a non-textured dial would be a great idea! We’ve also felt for some time that more models like that are needed. Now that people are starting to appreciate the excellence of Grand Seiko, I believe watches like this will also gain proper recognition.

Joe: That said, for Grand Seiko, 40mm remains the core selling size. Broadly speaking, slightly larger watches are still preferred in the U.S. compared with the Japanese market. It’s a size that’s easy to wear and isn’t affected by short-term trends.

Jon: Even for customers who prefer larger watches, the 38.5mm case of this “Omiwatari” would not feel too small. I think it’s an ideal size that properly reflects current trends.

Kubo: That’s reassuring. For this project, we’re planning to pair this case with a special dial, something we’ve rarely done for Grand Seiko. We’ve released many Grand Seiko dials that emphasize texture, such as pressed patterns, and those designs are highly regarded. This time, however, we want to go for a simple painted dial with almost no texture.

Joe: I think a non-textured dial would be a great idea! We’ve also felt for some time that more models like that are needed. Now that people are starting to appreciate the excellence of Grand Seiko, I believe watches like this will also gain proper recognition.

Egashira: When we considered which solid color to choose, we decided to pursue a dial with a subtle tone, in line with global trends. Among those options, we were looking for a special color that felt distinctly Japanese and unlike anything GS had done before. This led us to Shijūhatcha Hyakunezumi, a uniquely Japanese color palette. These are traditional colors that supported the culture of townspeople in the late Edo period.

The Overseas Members Are Excited About the Dial Color’s Emphasis on the Emotion of Watchmaking!

Kubo: For this project, we selected five colors that suit modern sensibilities and everyday life, which we felt would resonate with people drawn to the design, and we prepared renderings for each.

Joe: That’s a compelling story. You’re keeping in mind customers who choose a watch not only for its inherent value, but also for its emotional dimension. (Looking at the renderings) Wow. Every one of these colors is fantastic!

Kubo:Option A is Minatonezu, a blue-green with a slightly grayish tone. Option B, Fukagawanezumi, is also a blue-green, but lighter. Option C is Yanaginezumi, a gray with subtle green tones. Option D is Ginnezu, a silvery gray with a faint hint of blue. Finally, Option E is Benikeshinezumi, a darker gray with a reddish-purple nuance.

Joe:Actually, when we were considering colors for the U.S. Limited Edition models, SBGA507 (https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbga507g) and SBGA509 (https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbga509g), we referred to books on Japanese traditional colors. At that time, we chose colors based on ukiyo-e. Of course, they were completely different from these colors, but I’m surprised how the concept is the same.

Ando: We’ve also been surprised by how deeply people in the U.S. understand Japanese culture. (Laughs) For this project, we’re hoping to pursue a new form of expression through these traditional Japanese colors with a solid finish.

Kubo:: All the colors will produce a special combination, so we are aiming for an intricate tone.

Joe: It’s hard to choose as all the options are excellent, but Option A, Minatonezu, is my personal favorite. Option B, Fukagawanezumi, also seems like a color that would appeal to a broad range of customers. That said, the GS9 Club Exclusive Model SBGY023, which was released only in the U.S., in 2022, used a neutral gray well-suited for everyday wear. The color is somewhat similar to that.

Jon: Personally, I like Option E Benikeshinezumi. However, in terms of really catching users’ attention, I think Option A, Minatonezu, and Option B, Fukugawanezumi are stronger.

Ando:I also like Option A, Minatonezu, and Option E, Benikeshinezumi.

Egashira:: Both have a strong presence and create an atmosphere you don’t find anywhere else.

Joe: : There’s nothing quite like Option A, Minatonezu, in the current collection, which makes it very unique. It has a sense of exclusivity, and I think it would be well received.

Jon:: I feel that the Boutique Online exclusive model SBGW275, which was released in the U.S. around 2021, was in a similar color range.

Joe: Right, that was the model that sold out almost instantly. (Shows reference materials)

Ando: It’s indeed close in terms of being a nuanced blue, but it’s completely different from the matte texture we’re aiming for.

Joe: That’s a fair point. The impression changes entirely depending on the texture.

Adding a Sense of Refinement Through Strap Texture and Dial Details

Ando: Taking into account the views of both of you and the Japanese team, it seems likely that we’ll narrow the choice down to Option A, Minatonezu, and Option E, Benikeshinezumi. Beyond that, do you have any other requests?

Joe: I’d like to see a distinctive strap. Rather than something standard like crocodile, I’d prefer a unique material or color, adding another layer of exclusivity.

Kubo: The strap will be calf leather, but we have a lot of flexibility when it comes to the grain (the natural, irregular creases and texture of the leather) as well as the color.

Jon: Since the dial has no texture, I think the strap should have some grain.

Ando: I agree. When it comes to color, adding texture will change the overall impression, but I feel that either brown or gray tones would look great with Option A, Minatonezu.

Kubo: For reference, this rendering is shown in a dark brown tone.

Jon: It’s nice. Chocolate brown would also work.

Ando: One more point. In the rendering for Option E, the Arabic numeral “9” and the GS logo are both in gold, right? I think that looks very striking. Whereas, in A Minatonezu, the indexes, hands, and logo are all silver, and it has a very harmonious feel. However, wouldn’t also making the “9” and the GS logo gold here give the piece more impact at first glance?

Kubo: For Option A, I initially felt that keeping everything in silver was cleaner and more beautiful, but making the “9” and the GS logo gold is certainly an option. It could add a touch of elegance. Based on today’s discussion, I’ll prepare a new set of renderings.

Several weeks later, Kubo completed updated renderings (Options F, G, and H). After further consideration, a version of Minatonezu with greater presence and a more refined sense of elegance was selected for the dial (Options F and G). However, because the minute track is black, an additional prototype with a slightly lighter tone dial was also made to ensure legibility. Meanwhile, texture was added to the strap, and three strap colors were selected for prototyping: chocolate brown for Option F, light gray for Option G, and dark brown for Option H.